Hanover Infantry Regiment von Oberg (11B)

The battalions of Oberg, and the squadrons of dragoons were to make a false attack on the left of the river, while the other three battalions entered the town by the bridge on the right….  — The Operations of the Allied Army, Under the Command of His Serene Highness Prince Ferdinand, Duke of Brunswick and Luneberg, During the Greatest Part of Six Campaigns, Beginning in the Year 1757, and Ending in the Year 1762

I’ve finished another regiment in 10mm.  It’s the Oberg regiment.  I have 5 infantry battalions, 3 cavalry regiments, command stands and a couple of supply wagons to paint.  Then I need to construct the terrain and assemble cardboard buildings before I can game the 1758 engagement at Hoya.It isn’t hard to paint 10mm figures as long as you make sure your brushes have good points for better control.I use a combination of Vallejo and Reaper paints.  A wash followed by highlights is very helpful to bring out the details on these figures.I find it is much easier to paint 10mm figures than to photograph them!The von Oberg regiment in column. At this time the Hanover regiments were single battalion regiments.The von Hauss regiment (with straw facings) in column on the left & von Oberg regiment (with yellow facings) is on the right.The French patiently wait as the Hanoverians advance.

Please feel free to comment on this post.  I’m still learning to paint 10mm figures and struggling to photograph them.

5 comments

  1. I really like these (particularly as I have also painted some of the same SYW Hanoverians). Really nice figures and you have made a very good job of them.

    I have painted loads of 10mm and tried a few painting methods. For my SYW armies, I started with a black undercoat and found that this really helps to speed the painting up. I then tried a different technique for the next project (War of the Spanish Succession). For these, I sprayed them white and then dolloped on Army Painter Dark Tone Ink (just cover the figure !). This has three effects. When dry, the ink makes the details of the figure stand out making it easier to paint, the lighter undercoat makes colours pop and finally the ink automatically black lines every part of the figure. Great stuff.

    For horses, I tend to undercoat in black and then only paint the horseflesh in dark brown (leaving the reins, mane and tail black, which means that you don’t have to paint them !). Just add a couple of lighter brown coats as highlight and the job’s done. I don’t fear horses anymore…

    If you want to see what these look like just drop me a line and i will send you some pics.

    Anyway, best of luck – this is a great start.

    Phil

  2. Hi Atomic Floozy, I have never done 10mm, contemplated it but yet another project, but I can help with the photos a little. Try a higher f stop say f22 and a tripod or a bean bag to rest the camera on or if using a phone google, photographing miniatures with an iPhone. Hope this helps. Your depth of field is out a little and the above may help.

    • Hi Chris, I’ll try your suggestions. I do have problems with depth (darn cataracts) and do have problems getting the entire picture in focus. I do use a tripod but don’t do anything with the f stop, I tend to let auto focus do all the work since I have problems seeing the camera’s view screen very well.

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